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Comprising the five districts of Kozhikode, Kannur, Kasaragod,
Malapuram and Wayanad, Malabar is a veritable tourist's paradise.
Watered by the monsoon rains, the verdant countryside shone
a deep green and a stiff shower blocking the distant hills.
Acres of lively green plantations of banana, coconut and betel
nut dotted the landscape. Dusk was a magical hour when the
dove tailing mountains appeared like a surrealist painter's
canvas in the fading light. At night, when darkness enveloped
all, jagged streaks of lightning would flay the blue sky.
Travelling through the picture postcard villages, virgin beaches,
trekking over the rocks and boulders to take a glance of the
prehistoric caves or medieval forts and finally complimenting
'Malabar is beautiful' would be inappropriate.
18 kilometers from Kannur, the 'land of looms and lore' is
a famous Sri Muthappan Temple of Parassinikadavu. Located
on the banks of the Valapattanam River, it is the only venue
that organizes a regular performance of the 'theyyam' dance.
The 'theyyam' dance is a frenzied dance, where the dancer
representing God goes into a trance, a stage, which the audience
believes, when he is in direct communion with God and can
act as the oracle. This highly ritualistic dance is held only
on special occasions during the harvest season and festivals.
One of the most remarkable features of this temple is that
the venerated temple and the theyyam are open to all people
irrespective of class or caste.
'Theyyam' or 'Theyattam' is a popular ritual dance of north
Kerala. It is a living tradition that embraces all castes
and classes of the Hindu religion. The term 'theyyam' is derived
from the word 'Daivam', meaning divine. Though 'theyyam' has
inspired scholars to study in detail the origin, theme and
intricacies of this dance, the localites believe that the
ancient sage Parasuram had initiated it. While the major temples
and the rituals were the prerogatives of the upper castes,
the theyyam was the access to divinity for the backward classes.
On the day of the theyyam performance, the venue where the
dance would take place would be washed and cleaned. A banana
tree would be cut to look like a throne. It was a symbolic
representation of the seat of the gods. To begin with, the
performers come without any elaborate make up and hold the
'vellattam'. They recite the ritual song, explain the myths
and divine powers associated with the deities to be propitiated
and return to their quarters. After sometime they reappear
in their traditional attire and make up. Each character has
a distinctive makeup and headgear. Red is the prominent colour
used. The recitals comprise Paradevatha, Guliganthara, Padaveeran
and Pottantheyyam. The dance itself is a mix of energetic
moves and intricate footwork. The actors fight with the evil
powers and deliver mankind from tricky situations. The drummers
and other musicians would be engaged in delivering a frenzied
beat.
Located 12 kilometers away from the town of Sultan Bathery
is the Edakkal Caves, a prehistoric Stone Age cave. A long
scramble over the terrain leads to the cave's mouth. Formed
by a large split in the rock, the two natural formations represent
one of the world's richest pictographic galleries of its kind.
Some of the carvings on the walls are quite graphic and clear.
On the way to Kasaragod is Bekal Fort, a sprawling 16th century
fort overlooking the Arabian Sea. It was built as a sentinel
to protect the Malabar Coast from sudden raids by foreigners.
It rises to a height of 130 feet from the seabed and requires
over an hour to see the rambling fort. The huge guard wall
offers a fantastic view of the sea below. To one side lies
a fishing village and on both sides, the yellow sand beach
extends like a golden scimitar bordered by silvery froth.
Unraveling Malabar at one go is not possible, the place is
like a delicate smorgasbord that can be enjoyed only in chunks
and nibbles.
Source: Go Now
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